4-day Inca Trail trek (Peru)

We really underestimated the difficulty of trekking the Inca Trail - and being at altitude made it much, much worse! The altitude affected us with headaches, tingling hands and feet, dizziness, feeling generally sick and exhausted.

The first day was 'easy' - going uphill, downhill, through small villages and on farmer's tracks. The scenery was breathtaking, although we were mainly too busy watching where our feet were going to really enjoy the full effect! The track was partly dirt, partly stones, partly steps. I always thought the Incas were little people, but some of their steps were huge! (how did they do it?).

Camp was set up by the porters. Even our lunch stops had a dining tent set up, and a 3-course meal, delicious. In the evening we were 2 to a tent and camped at designated campgrounds. What i was not expecting was so many other trekkers. Apparently they allow 200 trekkers PER DAY plus another 250 guides and porters. That's a hell of a lot of traffic on the trail.

Day 2 was very very tough: the first 5 hours were steadily uphill to an elevation of 4200m above sea level. I was struggling with dizziness and tingling hands and feet, it was exhausting, and also depressing to have to stop every 5m or so to get my breath back. I did not think I would make it...but I did. Another 2 hours of trekking downhill...down steep, uneven, stone steps. Thank GOD for my trekking poles!!

Overnight was quite cold, someone said it was -2C. I was just freezing, wore 2 sets of wool thermals to bed and was still cold. What a horrible sleep i had. Day 3 was a little easier, but I was just exhausted. I went to bed when we stopped after lunch, shivering and feeling horrible. I barely ate any lunch (and for anyone who knows me, THIS is a sure sign I am not well!!). I managed to get up for happy hour and it was a good thing too, the cook had baked a cake, and it was delicious.

In our group were 11 trekkers (Kiwi and Taiwanese couple, UK couple, Canadian couple, 2 19yo backpackers from the Netherlands, a Mexican/Dutch young backpacker, and us), a guide (Jimmy) and an assistant guide (Roland), and 13 porters and cook. The porters carry SO MUCH weight, it's unbelievable. Their packs are barely set up with proper straps and support, and on their feet they usually wear rubber sandals. Sometimes the ran on the trail, and we were always careful to keep out of their way. Just amazing.

The last day we got up at 4am to trek up to Sun Gate to see Machu Picchu at sunrise. Not sure where the sun was though, and it was a little bit of a letdown to arrive - so lovely (NOT) with heaps of other trekkers and guides, all snapping pictures and shouting congratulations to one another. Machu Picchu is quite beautiful but we did see quite a few other ruins along the trek, and the sheer amount of people at the site made it feel a little like Disneyland........

Sea lion interaction!!

Today was excellent. We hopped into the dinghies and went for a cruise around the island, saw some blue-footed boobies and lots of sea lions. In a small lagoon about 5 baby sea lions followed us, frolicking around the boat and swimming really fast…..then we went for a snorkel and found a spot with heaps of sea lions and we snorkelled with them for about an hour. The pups were so inquisitive and friendly, they would swim right up to my mask and look at me in the eyes, and at the last minute swerve to avoid crashing into me, then spin around and swim around me….oh my god it was the most beautiful thing I have ever experienced. Everyone loved it, and we only got out of the water when we had wrinkled prune skin and were getting chilled. The sea lions were so playful and graceful underwater. Sometimes they would pop their head out of the water like a periscope, and then quickly go underwater and around me. It was a bit freaky sometimes because it was hard to believe they were so curious and non-threatening. Loved it loved it loved it. The best wildlife interaction ever!!!!

Hard to believe we are off the boat tomorrow and flying to Peru. It has been the most amazingly wonderful experience here and lovely to live on the boat, with a wonderful guide and crew, delicious meals (roast turkey, mashed potato, green beans, carrots and cauliflower plus salad for dinner and a yummy cake for dessert), great company with Aussies and Americans. I recommend it to everyone!

Punto Suarez

Life on board the MY San Jose is wonderful. 15 passengers and 9 crew. The crew is so helpful and friendly, always making sure the dinghies are wiped down, the life jackets are stacked neatly. After a shore excursion was have cold drinks waiting for us (today, banana smoothies) or a snack like chicken empanadas. The meals are delicious, lots of veggies, sometimes soup and always a hot meal with dessert or fresh fruit. We have tried some Ecuadorian food like manioc and plantain. Our cabins are quite large, with 2 single beds, a desk/shelf and an ensuite with large shower and a wardrobe for extra clothing. The crew make our beds daily and make sure we have clean towels. They ring the bell when it’s mealtime, or excursion time. It is very stress-free and relaxing.

Today Mark and Ben were supposed to jump off the very top deck into the water. Mark chickened out (too many Chivas last night made him say silly things!!) but eventually Ben made the giant leap.

We went on a beach walk this morning and there were heaps of sea lions all over the place. You could step on one easily, they were everywhere. A little pup took a shine to Mark, it was beautiful. Later we went for a snorkel, apart from a black tipped reef shark there wasn’t much to see….except sea lions in the water!! Mark took a great pic of a sea lion underwater. After lunch and an afternoon rest, we jumped into the dinghies to go ashore at Punto Suarez. This was an EXCELLENT excursion. Upon landing we just about stepped on sea lions and marine iguanas. There is actually a great surf break here (Mark was excited). We did a 2hr walk around to the cliffs, rookeries and did lots of bird watching: blue-footed and nazca boobies, and waved albatross - I sat next to a waved albatross, he was 2 feet away from me and happy as can be. We watched a couple of them mating and just flying around overhead, including the tropic birds with their long, long tails.

San Cristobal Island

This morning we arrived at San Cristobal Island, had a long beach walk, saw oyster catchers, marine iguanas, sally lightfoot crabs, and lots of sea lions lounging around. Had some fun with my camera, taking jumping shots. Went for a snorkel afterwards, it was very relaxing.

Life on board is fantastic, the meals are wonderful, I love the salsa music Jeff puts on in the bar in the evening. We went into the town later, for a long hot walk (it is so humid!) and then cooled off with a couple of beers in a place along the port. Some of the group tried the very hot chillies that were growing in bushes surrounding..it was hilarious.

Happy hour went on even after dinner, for us anyway! We have met Ben, a young guy from Melbourne, who is a terrible influence on us…. It’s hard to believe we only have a couple of days left in the magnificent Galapagos Islands.

Puerto Ayora

Last night was fantastic, cruising along towards Puerto Ayora, watching common and bottle-nose dolphins, frigate birds, manta rays along the way. The starry night was incredible as well. We arrived into Puerto Ayora - home to around 19 000 people. The ‘harbour’ was not really in a sheltered area, heaps of other cruise boats, sailboats and lights.

Today we went into Puerto Ayora. There were fishermen cleaning fish and surrounded by pelicans and a seal, who were all waiting for scraps. It was quite funny to watch. Off to the Charles Darwin Conservation Centre we went, to look at Galapagos Tortoises. Mark and I went with Fabian, our guide, to the LAN office into town only to be told that his bag STILL had not arrived - it apparently was in Baltra, a couple of hours away……

Did a bit of souvenir shopping, had a lovely ice cream and headed back to the boat for lunch. In the afternoon we went to the highlands to see a cloud forest and tortoises. Everyone walked and crawled through a lava tube. Later we said our goodbyes to half the group, and enjoyed dinner and drinks back on the boat. It was good to see Puerto Ayora but we are looking forward to heading back out to sea at midnight.

AND: Mark’s luggage has finally arrived, 6 days later….fantastic! I will be writing to LAN to complain, but that’s another story.

Volcanic lava!

Today was an awesome excellent day…..we got up at 5am to go for a short hike to see if we could see turtles laying their eggs….we just missed them unfortunately, but this particular beach had a lot of washed-up rubbish on it (plastic) so we cleaned it up.

We then did a hike up to the lighthouse up a long boardwalk with many steps, the lava ash around it was amazingly different to see, that and the lava cactuses growing. The view was spectacular, overlooking islands, volcanic lava fields and blue ocean.

After breakfast we went snorkelling, saw a few rays, a fur seal sunning himself on a rock on the shoreline, heaps and heaps of baitfish. The incredible thing is, the baitfish did not get out of the way when you swam into them, they just surrounded you, as part of the baitfish ball. unbelievable.

We are loving being on the boat, it’s relaxing, our beds are made every morning, cabin cleaned, 3 meals plus snacks during the day. They use a bell to tell us when to get up, when to come for meals, when to go snorkelling. The crew always makes sure the dinghies are clean and dry, the life jackets stacked neatly, ready for use. They all do a wonderful job. The islands are just beautiful and the landscape diverse.

Tomorrow….maybe just maybe Mark’s luggage will turn up in Santa Cruz. I am not counting on it but it would be a nice surprise. He was wearing my Teva sandals on the lava field walk, and the soles came off (the extreme heat??). Will be nice if he is able to wear his own stuff again!!

Galapagos marine life

This morning we were awoken at 0530 by the bell ringing. Jumped into the dinghies and went to shore to explore Rabida Island….we came across marine iguanas for the first time, they looked very camouflaged on the vocanic rocks!! Very spiky and numerous. You could just about step on them accidentally. Lots of Sally Lightfoot crabs, great orange colour. We snuck up on the sea lions swimming and sleeping in a deep rocky pool near the shoreline. Dolphins were out from the shore.

We came back for breakfast at 0800 and at 1030 went for a snorkel. Mark was lucky enough to witness a fur seal swimming past him underwater. We saw a few turtles and lots of fish.

I had a few naps today in the shade on the boat, watched sharks and rays swimming around the boat, and had a great time trying (unsuccessfully) to photograph birds diving down to get baitfish, and watching a seal mum and pup frolicking on the beach.

Later, another snorkel. I was surrounded by baitfish, it was amazing. Saw a whitetip reef shark below, and witnessed birds diving down into the baitfish school to have lunch. It is truly amazing to swim with fish who don’t swim away from you, you are part of their environment.

We cannot believe the amazing scenery, red/brown sand and rocks, black volcanic sand and rocks, crystal clear water, cactuses growing from volcanic rocky outcrops, wow!! On our late afternoon walk we saw a gorgeous very pink flamingo digging for crill in a lagoon on the beach. A few giant starfish washed up on shore. Happy hour and dinner were lovely and relaxing. Early to bed as a 5am start in the morning.

Off to the Galapagos Islands

Today was a long and eventful day. Mark’s luggage, of course, did not arrive this morning. We spent quite a while running around and speaking to the LAN office. Anyway. We have decided to assume we will never see his bag again and move on. We hopped on the plane and off to the Galapagos Islands we went. It surprised me that the plane was actually quite large, 3 seats each side, and full. The flight from Quito to Baltra took just under 2 hours. Upon first view, the whole area looks enormous. So 2 things I had not expected!!

The airport is small and chaotic. You must get your passport stamped and pay a $100 fee. There were a few market stalls around the back, and we got Mark a hat, a couple of tshirts and a pair of shorts he can swim in. Then, jumped on a bus and drove down to the bay where the MY San Jose was awaiting us. On the small jetty we were surprised by a sleek, glossy, black fur seal, and another seal, just lying on the stairway…plus a sea iguana sunning on the corner. Amazing to see these creatures so unafraid of humans!!

First impressions of the MY San Jose, it is a big boat, similar in size to what I worked on in the Great Barrier Reef - apparently is licensed for 32 passengers but only takes 16...heaps of room! Every room has twin beds and an ensuite, all cabins above sea level, and stretch from side to side, so if you open the windows a great breeze flows through. Mark and I are in room 5, on the top deck just behind the wheelhouse. We had a delicious lunch of salad (shredded red cabbage, tomato), pasta and tomato/vegetable sauce. For dessert, lovely plump bananas drizzled with chocolate sauce.

Later in the afternoon we hopped onto 2 dinghies and went over to a mangrove lagoon to see some blue-footed boobies and other birds, also some turtles and rays. There is wildlife everywhere…just fantastic. Our guide, Fabian, is very knowledgeable and speaks English very well. The boat crew is about 6 people - they don’t speak to the passengers much, I think they are unsure of their language skills and so choose not to associate with us much.

Dinner, baked fish, potatoes, green beans/carrots and salad. For dessert, baked apples with a blackberry sauce…..mark and I finished up with a cup of tea on the top deck, watching sharks and fish splash around in the lit water surrounding the boat… wow… First impressions: YAY I’m so glad I’m here!!

Quito, Ecuador: the next day

We are feeling a bit rugged this morning, less than 5 hours sleep, and more than a little stressed about the missing luggage. I’ve got our local tour company onto the issue, they are contacting LAN later this morning. We went for a wander around the neighbourhood. I just had my camera around my neck, but after first a cab driver calling to me out his window, saying be careful! And a shop keeper also warning me about the camera being too obvious, I got a little paranoid. I guess it’s better to carry it in a bag from now on. I got a few nice pics though, a bunch of men walking to work, they looked like labourers, wearing great hats. Also a little kiosk, you find them all over, selling magazines, lollies and drinks.

We found a bunch of shops just in case we have to stock up for Mark: undies, board shorts and an outdoor wear shop. I hope it doesn’t get to that point but shops are open till around 7pm so we have a bit of time. We are back in bed now, trying to rest up and catch up on some sleep.

Update: we gave up trying to contact LAN by phone and went back to the airport this afternoon. They say that Mark’s bag is on tonight’s flight, but they won’t deliver it to us. So we have to go back again to the airport tonight to hopefully get it…fingers crossed. We met the other members of our Galapagos cruise, a mixed bunch of mostly Aussies but a few Americans as well. We leave tomorrow morning for the Islands and we hope that Mark’s bag will be joining us!!